The Atlas

Travel, Country by Country

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North America

Scott standing on a black lava field below Pacaya volcano in Guatemala
Guatemala

Guatemala: From Guatemala City to Pacaya, Antigua & Casa del Ron

A short trip with big personality, black lava fields, colonial ruins, the shadow of Fuego, and a rum tasting.

Field Notes · 9 min read
Masaya volcano crater glowing at dusk
Nicaragua

Nicaragua: Steel Trees, Colonial Color, and the Mouth of Masaya

Raw, colorful, volcanic and warm, from the Árboles de la Vida to the red glow of an active crater.

Field Notes · 10 min read
Aerial view of El Boquerón crater in El Salvador with the smaller Boqueroncito cone
El Salvador

El Salvador: El Boquerón, Tamanique, and the Heart of San Salvador

More layered, more beautiful, more surprising than I had imagined, volcanic bowls, Pacific viewpoints, and a city reclaiming its plazas.

Field Notes · 8 min read
Roatán sign by the water in Honduras
Honduras

Honduras: Roatán, Rum, Wildlife, and Caribbean Blue

Hire a local guide, get out beyond the port, taste the rum, and absolutely hold the sloth.

Field Notes · 6 min read
Sunrise over Peninsula Papagayo, Costa Rica
Costa Rica

Costa Rica: Sunrises, Hammocks, Wildlife, and a Proper Cocktail Education

Sunrise over the Pacific, hammocks under the trees, coatis and monkeys wandering past, and a mixology class that made the place feel even more dangerous.

Field Notes · 7 min read
Sunset over the overwater bungalows at El Dorado Maroma, Mexico
Mexico

Mexico: Ruins, Reefs, Overwater Bungalows, and the Fine Art of Not Checking Email

Mahahual, Quintana Roo, Playa del Carmen, El Dorado Maroma, and Isla Mujeres. Ancient stone in the morning, Caribbean blue in the afternoon.

Field Notes · 6 min read
Belize mural showing Mayan temples, jaguars, and tropical birds
Belize

Belize: A Brief Stop in Paradise

A few hours ashore in Belize, where a vivid mural said more about the country than any itinerary could.

Field Notes · 2 min read
Map of the United States showing 41 visited states in green and 9 wishlist states in orange
United States

United States: The Fifty State Quest

Forty one states down, nine to go. A living map of the U.S. with deeper field notes from specific places landing soon.

Field Notes · 1 min read
Map of Canada showing visited provinces and territories in green and the remaining ones in orange
Canada

Canada: The Province and Territory Quest

Four provinces and one territory down, eight to go. A living map of Canada with deeper field notes from specific places landing soon.

Field Notes · 1 min read
Panama Canal Miraflores Locks with cargo ship and Panama City skyline in the distance
Panama

Panama: Where the World Narrows and Opens

Glass towers on the Pacific, colonial streets in Casco Viejo, the gravity-fed mechanics of the Canal, and a sloth that refuses to be hurried.

Field Notes · 11 min read
Havana skyline at dusk with the Capitolio dome rising above rooftops
Cuba

Cuba: Cruising Havana, Architecture, Weathering, and Vintage Cars

Havana arrived by sea, colonial stone, faded pastels, the Capitolio dome, and 1950s American convertibles still rolling through the streets.

Field Notes · 10 min read
Rolling green hills and beaches in St. Kitts with Nevis in the distance
St. Kitts & Nevis

St. Kitts & Nevis: Volcano Trails, Sugar Cane, Monkeys, and the Caribbean in Stereo

Volcano hike, fresh sugar cane, mischievous monkeys, harbor views, and a catamaran lunch in Nevis. St. Kitts is small on a map and enormous in person.

Field Notes · 6 min read
A flamingo standing on a white-sand Aruba beach with turquoise water behind
Aruba

Aruba: The Island I Keep Coming Back To

Sunsets, flamingos, trade winds, turquoise water, and one scorpion shot that probably deserves its own risk assessment.

Multiple visits · 8 min read
A double rainbow over the harbour in Hamilton, Bermuda
Bermuda

Bermuda: The Pink Palace, Harbour Light, and a Much-Needed Reset

Some trips are built for exploration. Others are built for oxygen. Bermuda, in November 2020, was the second kind.

November 2020 · 5 min read
Atlantis from above, a full sweep of Paradise Island, lagoons, palms and blue Atlantic beyond.
Bahamas

Bahamas: Atlantis, CocoCay, and the Art of the Easy Escape

Paradise Island in 2014 and 2019, CocoCay in 2023, and a reminder that some trips are built less for checking boxes and more for exhaling.

August 2014, June 2019, August 2023 · 6 min read
From Mount Isabel de Torres, Puerto Plata opens into one sweeping view of green hills, city blocks, harbor, and Atlantic water.
Dominican Republic

Dominican Republic: Rum, Rainforest, and the View Above Puerto Plata

Taino Bay, General Luperon, Macorix rum, and the long view from Mount Isabel de Torres over Puerto Plata.

Visited 2024 · 5 min read
Tortola wakes up in soft morning light, with Road Town and the harbor layered against green volcanic hills.
British Virgin Islands

British Virgin Islands: Rum, Ruins, and Ridgelines in Tortola

Road Town from above, the Mount Healthy sugar windmill, and a tasting at the Caribbean's oldest pot distillery.

Visited August 2023 · 5 min read
The Condado Vanderbilt's cliffside terrace with blue-and-white striped umbrellas and the Atlantic crashing below
Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico: Condado, Kayaks, and a Glowing Night in the Mangroves

Visited: December 2016. A San Juan work trip that turned into a nighttime paddle through mangroves toward glowing water.

December 2016 · 5 min read