Bermuda: The Pink Palace, Harbour Light, and a Much-Needed Reset

Some trips are built for exploration. Others are built for oxygen. Bermuda, in November 2020, was the second kind.

November 2020 · 5 min read

Some trips are built for exploration. Others are built for oxygen. Bermuda, this time, was the second kind.

November 2020, on the heels of the strangest stretch of travel any of us had ever lived through, I found myself back in Hamilton Harbour. I did not come to conquer a bucket list. I came to sit still, drink coffee on a balcony, and watch the water change color. Bermuda delivered exactly that, with a few surprises mixed in.

Arrival at the Pink Palace

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The Hamilton Princess & Beach Club, affectionately known as the Pink Palace, is impossible to miss. It sits on the harbour like a giant salmon-colored promise that vacation has officially begun. The building is a soft rose, the kind of pink that feels deliberate and confident, the way only a historic hotel can be. It has hosted Mark Twain, royalty, and now a tired traveler looking for a comfortable chair and a view.

My balcony faced the water, which meant every sunrise became a silent showing off. The light slid across the harbor in silver, gold, and pale blue, turning the moored boats into a casual painting. It was the kind of view that makes you forget why you thought you were busy.

Late-afternoon light over Hamilton Harbour, when the water starts showing off.

Hamilton Harbour, Doing What Harbours Do Best

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Hamilton Harbour is small enough to feel personal and busy enough to remind you that people actually live here. The boats come and go, the ferries cut across the water, and the whole scene has a rhythm that makes you want to slow down. In the evening, the lights across the water begin to blink on, and the harbor becomes a reflection party.

I spent a lot of time just watching. It is underrated, watching. No itinerary. No checklist. Just the sound of water, the occasional ferry horn, and the slow realization that I had been holding my shoulders near my ears for several months.

Hamilton Harbour after dark, when the city and the water trade places.
Golden hour across the harbor, the warmest color Bermuda offers.

The Rainbow Over the Harbour

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One afternoon, after a brief rain, the sky decided to apologize with a rainbow. Then it decided to double down with a double rainbow. It stretched across the harbor, bold and almost showy, right above the boats and the buildings. I stood there on the balcony like a person seeing color for the first time.

You can see it in the hero photo above the water, arching over the harbor as if the island had hired it specifically for the moment. It felt like the perfect metaphor for a trip that was not about doing much, but about noticing everything.

The flower-shaped urinal at Harry's at the Waterfront. Some art is functional.

A Small Dose of Island Weirdness

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No trip of mine is complete without at least one slightly absurd detail. Bermuda delivered in the men's room at Harry's at the Waterfront. The urinals were shaped like flowers. Call it practical art. Call it a weird flex. Either way, it is hard to use one and not feel like you have accidentally wandered into a surrealist garden party.

It was the perfect little reminder that even the most polished places have a sense of humor. You do not expect bathroom fixtures to become a story, but then again, you do not expect a double rainbow either. Bermuda is good at both.

The Swizzle Inn, where rum meets island mythology.

The Caves, the Bridge, and the Older Bermuda

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I did manage to leave the hotel a few times. Bermuda is small enough that you can see a lot of it without feeling rushed. I visited the Crystal Caves, where the water below the boardwalk is so still and clear it looks like you are walking on glass. I saw the old Gibbs Hill Lighthouse, the kind of structure that has watched over ships for so long it probably has opinions.

And then there is the water everywhere, the pastel houses, the winding lanes, and the famous pink sand beaches. I did not try to do it all. That was the point. I let the island move at its own pace, and I tried to match it.

A quiet stretch of waterfront near Hamilton, the island doing exactly what it does best.

What This Trip Was Really About

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Bermuda in 2020 was not an adventure. It was a reset. It was a place to remember that travel does not always have to be about achievement. Sometimes it is about being somewhere beautiful and letting it hold you for a while.

The Pink Palace gave me a balcony. The harbour gave me a view. The double rainbow gave me a memory. And the flower-shaped urinal gave me a story I will tell for years. Some trips are built for exploration. This one was built for oxygen. And sometimes, oxygen is exactly what you need.

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