South Korea: Seoul Palaces, Peaks, and Mother-of-Pearl Memories
A July 2018 visit to Seoul, Gyeongbokgung Palace and the changing of the guard, Namsan skyline views from N Seoul Tower, Korean food, and a najeonchilgi mother-of-pearl box to take home.
July 13, 2018 · 7 min read
Seoul was one of those cities that immediately felt easy to explore. Big, modern, and fast-moving, yes, but also clean, organized, and surprisingly approachable. English was commonly spoken in many of the areas I visited, and with the strong American presence in and around the city, it felt familiar in small ways while still being unmistakably Korean.
Most importantly, it felt safe. Very safe. The kind of city where you can wander from royal palaces to mountain overlooks to markets without constantly checking over your shoulder. Seoul offers culture, history, food, skyline views, and enough souvenir temptation to make your luggage start negotiating for hazard pay.
One of the highlights was visiting Gyeongbokgung Palace, the largest and most famous of Seoul's Five Grand Palaces. Originally built in 1395 during the Joseon Dynasty, it remains one of the best places to feel Korea's deep historical roots right in the middle of the modern capital.
The palace grounds are expansive, with broad stone courtyards, ornate wooden halls, painted rooflines, and mountain backdrops that make the whole place feel cinematic. In one direction, you see centuries-old palace architecture; in another, modern Seoul rising around it. That contrast is part of what makes the city so compelling.
I was also lucky enough to catch the changing of the guard ceremony, which brought the palace to life with color, pageantry, and tradition. Guards in bright ceremonial robes carried flags, spears, drums, and traditional weapons across the courtyard. It was formal, theatrical, and highly photogenic.
Another stop captured the beauty of traditional Korean architecture tucked into the modern city. The curved tiled roofs, painted wooden beams, and intricate detailing stood in sharp contrast to the glass and steel buildings nearby.
That is Seoul in a nutshell: old and new constantly sitting side by side. A temple or palace gate may be framed by office towers. A quiet historic courtyard may be only minutes from busy shopping streets. It never feels frozen in the past, but it also does not seem willing to forget it.
No Seoul visit feels complete without heading up toward N Seoul Tower, perched on Namsan Mountain. The tower is one of the city's most recognizable landmarks, and the views from the area are spectacular, even on a hazy day.
From the overlook, Seoul stretches out in every direction: dense neighborhoods, green hills, river corridors, bridges, and endless layers of cityscape. The haze gave it a moody, almost cinematic feel, like the city was slowly revealing itself through the clouds.
One fun detail from the tower area was the distance markers pointing toward major world cities, including several in the United States. It is a small thing, but for travelers it creates that familiar moment of perspective: you are standing in Korea, looking out over Seoul, while a sign quietly reminds you just how far from home you really are.
Around N Seoul Tower, the colorful love locks added another layer of personality to the visit. Thousands of locks, tags, and messages are attached around the viewing areas, left by couples, friends, and travelers from around the world.
If people want to publicly declare eternal devotion with a padlock on a mountain in Seoul, who am I to stand in the way of romance and mild structural engineering?
Seoul is a tremendous food city. Even a short visit offers opportunities for Korean barbecue, bibimbap, dumplings, noodles, street snacks, and enough spicy sauces to remind you that your American spice tolerance may not be a global standard.
The city also felt easy to navigate. Public transit is efficient, taxis were accessible, and many tourist-friendly areas had enough English signage to make exploring manageable. The presence of many Americans, connected in part to the broader U.S. military footprint in South Korea, also made the city feel less intimidating for a first-time visitor.
But the real joy is still in wandering: palace courtyards, lookout points, market stalls, side streets, and souvenir shops filled with craftsmanship.
The standout souvenir from Seoul was absolutely a mother-of-pearl box, known in Korean as najeonchilgi.
These lacquerware pieces are made by inlaying thin pieces of iridescent shell into lacquered wood, creating shimmering designs of flowers, cranes, landscapes, butterflies, and traditional patterns. The boxes are beautiful because they change with the light, one angle looks subtle and elegant, the next flashes with color.
It is the perfect Seoul souvenir: distinctly Korean, handmade in feel, practical enough to display or use, and small enough to bring home without requiring a second mortgage for checked luggage.
Among the best options are jewelry boxes, small keepsake boxes, trays, decorative panels, and business-card cases. The craftsmanship can vary widely, so it is worth taking your time, comparing pieces, and choosing one with clean inlay work and a design that actually speaks to you.
Seoul was a memorable blend of royal history, modern skyline, mountain views, safety, and craftsmanship. In a single day, you can walk through the legacy of the Joseon Dynasty, look out over a massive modern metropolis from Namsan, eat incredibly well, and come home with a piece of Korean artistry that feels timeless.
The palaces tell the story of Korea's past. The towers and skyline show its present. And the mother-of-pearl box on the shelf back home becomes the small, shimmering reminder that you were there.

